Heat oven to 350°. Heat bacon in a 6-qt. saucepan over medium-high heat; cook, stirring, until fat renders, about 4 minutes.
Add garlic, celery, onion, and pepper, salt, and pepper, and cook, stirring, until soft, about 4 minutes.
Add rice, thyme, cumin, coriander, cloves, cinnamon, and bay leaf, and cook until rice is lightly toasted, about 3 minutes. Add stock and bring to a boil.
Cover pan with lid and place in oven; bake until liquid is absorbed and rice is cooked through, about 20 minutes.
Stir in black-eyed peas and nutmeg and let sit, covered, for 10 minutes.